Recommended without reservations

Rabelais Books' owners, Don and Samantha Hoyt Lindgren, have many volumes in their own kitchen. These are among their favorites.

"Baking With Julia," by Dorie Greenspan (William Morrow). If Samantha Lindgren could have only one baking book on her desert island, this would be it. With all of the talented chefs contributing and Julia Child overseeing this volume, the pages are filled with many tried-and-true classic recipes; you can't go wrong.

"Lulu's Provençal Table: The Exuberant Food and Wine From the Domaine Tempier Vineyard," by Richard Olney (Ten Speed Press). Don Lindgren learned about Lulu and her fabulous table from the great gourmand Jim Harrison; the late Richard Olney's book enables him to create a little piece of Provence at home.

"The River Cottage Meat Book," by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall (Ten Speed Press). Englishman Fearnley-Whittingstall has written a book to help us truly understand the philosophical and pragmatic aspects of the meat on our table, from the field, through slaughter and butchering, to cooking and serving.

"Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone," by Deborah Madison (Broadway Books). Though they're not vegetarians, the Lindgrens turn to this book when they return from the market, knowing they'll always find a delectable recipe (or two) for their veggies.

"The Zuni Cafe Cookbook: A Compendium of Recipes and Cooking Lessons From San Francisco's Beloved Restaurant," by Judy Rodgers and Gerald Asher (W. W. Norton). Zuni Cafe chef Rodgers has a sophisticated modern approach to seemingly simple food. Her famous roast chicken recipe helped push Don Lindgren out of his comfort zone with familiar dishes and into a world of deeper flavors. -- DIANA BURRELL