Making the most of zucchini

Online message boards abound with stories of desperate attempts to give away zucchini. Some report resorting to stealth midnight drops on neighbors' doorsteps.

Andy Pollock, owner of Silverbrook Farm in Dartmouth, doesn't tire of this summer staple and keeps its preparation simple. "The smaller the zucchini, the more flavorful and tender," says the grower. Regardless of preparation, he says, "the worst thing you can do to zucchini is overcook it." Pollock prefers his sauteed with olive oil and fresh basil. He suggests experimenting with round zucchini, now available at farmers' markets.

Many local restaurants, such as the new Japanese spot O Ya, feature fried zucchini. Chef and co-owner Tim Cushman's recipe calls for a light salting that draws out the vegetable's water. Logs of zucchini are dipped in buttermilk, coated with seasoned flour, and fried. The dish is topped off with a summery combination of grated lime and lemon rind, ground sesame seeds, fresh grated wasabi root, and scallions.