Selecting fruit is key to getting a fresh tart

Apple varieties come and go - and have done for centuries. For bakers - who spend apple season smiling - the fruit of choice must have lots of flavor but not turn mushy in the oven. Anything sweet that uses apples is a special treat. An apple tart - what's called a galette in France - always seems to make a dramatic impression. Wedges of apple are tucked into a buttery pastry in a circular pattern, then baked until the pastry browns. A rich cream and egg mixture is poured over the warm apples and the tart is baked again until the eggy mixture sets into a custard and the apples are tender. - JULIE RIVEN

NOTE: Seasoned bakers usually have a favorite apple. If you're new to baking with apples, it's important to choose a variety that isn't too watery. Apples that taste good aren't always ideal for baking. Good bakers include Baldwin, Cortland, Empire, Ginger Gold, Golden Delicious, Gravenstein, Jonagold, Jonathan, Mutsu, Northern Spy, Pippin, Rome.