Thursday, November 9, 2006

Pasta comes round again

Remember just a year or so ago when it seemed like pasta was going to go the way of the albatross? Well, don't look know, but it's making a strong comeback.

After a couple of years of dieters heavy into protein, who scoffed at the very idea of touching a deadly carb, places like Stella's in the South End, Marco's and the new La Brace in the North End, Bin 26 Enoteca on Beacon Hill and everywhere in between report that dishes like spaghetti Bolognese (anything Bolognese), is selling briskly.

And it's not just in restaurants that we're finding our pasta groove. Johanne Killeen and George Germon, owners of the famed Al Forno in Providence have a new cookbook, "On Top of Spaghetti" which is just that: 200-some pages of everything from spaghetti and meatballs to mushroom lasagna. It's smashing and simple at the same time.

So put that pot of water on to the stove, chop some garlic, and get back into that familiar groove. Pasta forever!

Vinter's Spaghetti
Serves 4 as a main course

2 plump cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 medium onions, finely chopped
6 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper
1/2 cup dry red wine
Salt, to taste
1 pound spaghettini
Parmigiano-Reggiano for serving (optional)

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil.
2. Combine the garlic, onions, olive oil, and red pepper flakes in a large, straight-sided saute pan. Cook over high heat, stirring often, for 5 minutes or until the garlic turns golden and the onions start to brown. Add the wine and continue cooking over brisk heat, letting the wine boil until it is almost completely reduced and you are left with a glossy purple glaze on the onions. Remove from the heat.
3. Stir a generous amount of salt into the boiling water and drop in the spaghettini. Cook at a rolling boil, stirring often, for 4 to 6 minutes or until the pasta is tender but still has some bite.
4. Transfer 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water to the pan of onions. Drain the pasta, transfer it to the onion mixture and turn up the heat.
5. Cook, stirring and tossing the pasta, until most of the water is absorbed. Pass the Parmigiano-Reggiano, if you like. Adapted from "On Top of Spaghetti"

Posted by Alison Arnett at 03:57 PM

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