Sheryl Julian, the Globe's Food Editor, writes regularly for the Food section.
Devra First is the Globe's food reporter and restaurant critic. Her
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« January 21, 2007 - January 27, 2007 |
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| February 4, 2007 - February 10, 2007 »
February 1, 2007
A little black book resembling a bible came into our office several weeks ago. It sports a red ribbon marker just like a bible and is stamped in gold leaf.
Of course, it's not the holy book, but a food/cookbook called "The Basics," published in Europe by Homarus Cookbooks. The photographer Tony Le Duc is also the publisher and this is his first effort, with Filip Verheyden, who wrote the recipes.
"The Basics" -- only 5-inches by 6 1/2-inches -- has a Cooks' Illustrated feeling with selections such as "To bard: Classic French culinary term meaning to cover or wrap ..." and how to stir-fry and how to slice chiffonades of herbs. Each explanation and the simple recipes for salad dressing, orange sauce, and more, is accompanied by beautiful, painterly-like photographs.
I can't really imagine needing this funny little book, yet it's strangely fascinating. I go back to it during the day when I need a break, just to flip through entries like "how to boil a lobster" or "to confit." So European. And unfortunately not too practical. Measurements are all in metric.
Alas, it will stay on my shelf rather than going into the kitchen.
Posted by Alison Arnett at 06:52 PM
January 31, 2007
Lamenting the lack of great ramen in the Boston area yesterday, I neglected to mention that there's hope on the noodle horizon.
I got a note from a reader this morning reminding me of that. She says:
"You might already be aware of this, but Wagamama, a popular UK chain of cheap, fast Japanese food, is coming to Faneuil Hall sometime this spring!"
That makes my bowl look half full. I love Wagamama! I used to eat there all the time when I studied in London as a poor college student. (And later when I returned as a slightly-less-poor tourist.) I can't wait to eat a steaming bowl of Wagamama ramen (with shiitake, kamaboko, shrimp, and other goodies), chili chicken ramen, or Thai-flavored kare lomen, washed down with elderflower-flavored sparkling water.
I think I can make it till spring.
Posted by Devra First at 10:53 AM
January 30, 2007
Why can't this trend come to Boston, already?
We have sushi, sushi, sushi everywhere you look -- and I love sushi -- but there's a lot more to Japanese food. For instance, izakaya, the casual pubs where businessmen drink beer and eat little plates of yakitori and onigiri. As the above link attests, there are plenty in New York. All I'm asking for is one in Boston.
And don't even get me started on noodles. Ohhh for a great bowl of ramen. People rave about Ken's Noodle House -- it's good, certainly better than this (all apologies to this guy, recently deceased), probably the best ramen in town. But it's not the ramen of my dreams.
For that, I'll have to go to Japan. And when I do, I'll definitely go here.
Posted by Devra First at 06:42 PM
January 30, 2007
Eating at the bar is our favorite way of dining, no matter where we are. Late last Thursday, we arrived in Tampa on our way to Orlando and popped in to the very big and bustling Columbia restaurant in Ybor City.
The place is a legend, and for good reason. It's been serving Spanish-Cuban food in several ornate dining rooms and patios since 1905. On this night, the place was jumping, and extended family groups, business people, and couples crowded the reservation stand.
"No," the hostess told us, "no tables unless you want to wait for an hour."
"What about eating at the bar?" we asked.
No, she replied.
We started to walk out, crestfallen, as still more pushed in the door. Finally, we decided to go to the bar anyway just to take in the carved wood and Old World elegance before moving on. As a jazz trio played, we sat down, and immediately noticed that the man next to us was tucking into a plate of seafood.
"Of course, you can eat here," said the bartender, a little harried but sweet. We ordered a couple of substantial tapas -- the blue crabmeat cakes with passion fruit aoili were fantastic. With shrimp and garlic sauce, a salad, and a glass of Spanish wine, we had a perfect repast.
Moral: Eat at the bar if you want; the hostess is too busy to notice.
Posted by Alison Arnett at 05:18 PM
January 29, 2007
I spent the day yesterday in airports. I used to complain about airline food. Now I've switched gears. I would have taken anything they offered. The tiny sack of pretzels was about one ounce. I took two planes and had a sandwich before I boarded the first one. That went with a cup of steamed low-fat milk from Starbucks. The milk, something I've never ordered, was delicious. The first flight went from Jacksonville, Fla. to Charlotte, N.C.
During the layover, I had about 30 minutes to look around. Well, here's what's going on. The same sandwich vendor has stocked the news store, the "fresh" kiosk, and again (ugh) Starbucks.
So I had another sandwich.
It didn't hit the spot. Something about the airless cabin I'd just been in, and the airless waiting area I was in. And the sandwich had probably been made days before. But there was nothing else! So I had:
yes, another!
Dinner was mighty lean and will be for several nights. Lots and lots of salad and steamed veg.
Faithfully yours,
The blogging blimp
Posted by Sheryl Julian at 06:14 PM
January 29, 2007
For awhile, it seemed that restaurant service was improving in Boston -- yes, it's true we're not Europe and the professionalism found in the most humble French bistro is seen here only in grand occasion dining. Still, service that is friendly, practical, and helpful seemed to be on the upswing.
But lately I find myself shaking my head at ineptitude. It's not really that servers are rude -- although that happens even in fancy places from time to time. It's more that the staff seem oblivious to even the basics. Our main courses come and no one's cleared the table from the first courses. The young waiter stands at the head of the table balancing four plates. Not only does he have no where to put them, he has no idea who ordered what. And he or she fully expects us to move dirty plates around, rearrange silverware, tell him or her where to put the plates, and hand him water glasses to fill. Even to take the plates from him to save the bother. Oh, and of course, tip generously.
In the last three weeks, this has happened to me four times at new restaurants -- and I'm not talking about diners. In fact, I bet a diner waitress would clear three tables, and take and deliver four more orders before these neophytes figured out that you don't ask the patrons to keep track of who gets what.
Restaurant managers should teach the basics. Don't assume that because a new employee has worked somewhere else, that he or she knows anything about table service. Or take them out to the local diners.
Posted by Alison Arnett at 04:45 PM
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