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« Hold the mayo | Main | The 1-minute gourmet » Wednesday, June 13, 2007High priest of riesling
The bearded guy pointing to his wineglass is specialty importer Terry Theise. Based in Maryland, Theise's beat is the Kingdom of Riesling in all its teutonic splendor. His annual catalogs are a trove of information, observation, and insight into the obscure world of German and Austrian winemaking. The voluble importer embodies what is just about our favorite thing: expertise guided by an aesthetic hitched to a heart. Consider this excerpt from his current German catalog: "This is the crux of the matter, isn't it? To one sort of vintner, a vineyard is a mere production unit, a thing which is used like a machine to bring about a result he's already decided upon. To another sort of vintner a vineyard is teeming with life. He goes out among his vines, his soils, his breezes, his birds, and listens. None of them speak his language, but all of them speak their own, and this he tries to hear." A half hour thumbing through an online Theise catalog is to spend time with those birds; those breezes. Posted by Stephen Meuse at 04:22 PM
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