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« The most popular rhubarb dessert | Main | Wild and farmed salmon » Friday, June 8, 2007Keeping it simple
I've never put together a restaurant wine list, but if I did, my criteria would be pretty simple: A list should be relatively small, change frequently, and click with the food. I'm less sure about how wine lists should be organized, whether by country and region, by varietal, or by perception ("rich and oaky"). The other night, we paid our first visit to newcomer T.W. Food in Cambridge, where the wine program is like nothing I've ever seen. First, for an haute spot, the list is tiny -- not more than a dozen whites and reds, almost all available either by the glass or the bottle. A reserve list offers four more expensive wines. Second, it's organized by producer. Each gets a little description, but individual wines don't.
Bottle prices range from about $35 to $90. We sipped a 2005 Fevre Chablis ($42) with our on-the-bone-halibut for two and were very happy. It will be interesting to see if anyone besides this little Huron Village "bistro-luxe" - as they style themselves -- has the confidence to follow suit. Posted by Stephen Meuse at 05:00 PM
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