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« Tartine's cookbook | Main | Pigheaded » Tuesday, August 21, 2007(formerly) Red wine
I'm reading an intriguing little set of essays by Croatian journalist Slavenka Drakulic ("Cafe Europa") about life in eastern Europe, post communism. My fascination with the book apparently put me on heightened alert for things Romanian. Last week, while browsing through the bins at the Wine Press on Beacon Street in Brookline, I came upon the pinot noir pictured here. Dealu Mare ("Big Hill") is an ancient winegrowing region 50 or so kilometers north of Bucharest. A $15 Romanian pinot with Vox Populi ("voice of the people") printed in Roman square capitals on the label proved impossible to resist. It may seem improbable, but Romania has a long and distinguished wine-making pedigree, reaching back to the days when it was the part of the Roman province of Dacia. In her "World Atlas of Wine," Jancis Robinson calls Romania "a Latin country in a Slav sandwich" and says the region, with an extensive coastline along Black Sea's eastern shore, has enormous unrealized potential for quality winemaking. So what about the wine? Well, there's a lot of lovely, sweet, unmistakeable pinot fruit here -- more than you'd expect. There's good acidity, too, and some modest grip. The downside (for me, at least) is the oak treatment, which could be lightened up a bit. We'll finish it up tonight at our table at the Cafe Europa. Posted by Stephen Meuse at 10:44 AM
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