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Wednesday, October 10, 2007
Food snobbery, defined
Out yesterday: "The Food Snob's Dictionary," which runs from "Acme Bread Company" to "Zingerman's," with plenty of stops in between. It's by David Kamp, the "United States of Arugula" guy, and Marion Rosenfeld. The tongue-in-cheek reference offers definitions such as:
Cepe. Cloying French synonym for porcini mushroom, used on menus to confuse diners who think porcinis are old news. Truly pretentious chefs use the term boletus mushrooms for cepes/porcinis, a shorthand allusion to the fungus's Latin name, Boletus edulis.
Reichl, Ruth. Prodigiously maned gastro-sensualist and writer. ... Though prone to onanistic, self-aggrandizing prose and batty flights of fancy -- wearing unnecessarily elaborate disguises while visiting restaurants, frequently invoking her dead mother as a speaking character in reviews -- Reichl has more than creditably served as the editor of Gourmet since 1999.
You get the picture. There are also interludes with titles such as "A pronunciation guide to food snob-esteemed personages" (Grant ACK-etz etc.) and "The food snob filmography" (#1: "Spartacus").
This is thinking ahead, but it has stocking stuffer written all over it.