As one taster put it, "I was born and raised in New England -- I have to like cranberry sauce!" Indeed, the cranberry should be our state emblem. Last year, more than 14,000 acres of cranberry bogs, mostly in the southeastern part of the state, produced around 1.4 million barrels of the sour, native berry (one barrel is 100 pounds). Cranberries love our acid, peaty soil.

Cranberry sauce, whole or jellied, is the Thanksgiving condiment of choice to tart up turkey's low-key and mild flavor. But don't just consign it to the feast day; cranberry sauce is just as good with roast pork, duck, chicken, even rich fish.

Nine tasters sampled six brands of whole cranberry sauce with a chaser of sliced turkey and bread. Several were surprised to find the tartness missing and an overwhelming sweetness in most brands. One self-proclaimed connoisseur only makes his own. "It's so easy," he said emphatically. Another claimed "I've yet to meet a cranberry sauce I didn't like -- until now." One woman was so disheartened, she announced, "Well I guess I will be making my own this year."

The winner was Stop & Shop's house brand, but not by much. Its whole berries were plentiful and had a "nice balance of tart and sweet." Trader Joe's Whole Berry Cranberry Sauce was a close second, but was judged more preserve-like than a whole berry condiment.

One taster, a Jamaica native, tasted cranberry sauce for the first time. Her family in New York eats goat curry and plantains for Thanksgiving. This year, she's decided to bring the cranberry sauce. But it may be homemade. She was seen taking down the recipe from the cranberry sauce expert. -- DEBRA SAMUELS