This time of year, plum puddings and gingerbread houses enchant many bakers, who think the holidays demand fancy sweets. But when it’s time to celebrate, old-fashioned cookie-jar treats aren’t too ordinary to offer friends and family. We think that a perfectly chewy oatmeal cookie, made with ‘‘fat raisins’’ (they’ve been plumped in a rum-orange syrup), or a buttery shortbread studded with bittersweet chocolate nuggets is exceptional. Add slightly salty peanut-butter rounds and rich chocolate cookies and the holiday dessert table is full and comforting. — SHERYL JULIAN

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