In the ancient Mediterranean, it was customary to cut wine with a little water before serving. Classical sources confirm that the ensuing beverage was considered a more civilized sip than full-strength versions as guests could drink freely without dulling their wits or the sparkle of their conversation. Today, it would be extraordinary to see anyone employ this technique, although steadily rising levels of alcohol in table wines (14 percent is no longer uncommon) suggest that the practice may be due for a comeback.

Powerful wines come from super ripe grapes, and while ripeness remains a key ingredient in quality wine, strength isn't always what we're after. Even now that the heat of late summer has dissipated and early evenings are carrying the hint of the chill to come, it remains a real pleasure to sip something cool and refreshing with the alcohol dialed down a stop or two.

The good news is that we needn't resort to some ill-conceived, artificial ``lite wine" category to fill the bill when a range of real white wines made to traditional regional standards provide wonderful lower-alcohol (11.5 percent or below) drinking.

And what could be more conducive to good conversation than wines even Plato would approve?