Martin Ray California "Red," 2003. The scale may be modest, but the proportions are spot on. There's a nice mouth-filling quality to the fruit, good concentration, and a bit of length. A steady, satisfying, appealing sip. About $14 for the oversize, finger-loop jug (a full liter, one-third more than a standard bottle). At OurGlass Wine Co., Saugus, 781-941-8068; Andover Liquors, Andover, 978-470-0500; Kingston Liquors, Kingston, 781-585-4462.