Potato latkes

December 12, 2006

Makes 10 large latkes

Starchy baking potatoes (russets) are ideal for latkes. The traditional recipe, made entirely with grated potatoes, always produces a brown batter because the potatoes start to darken as soon as they're cut. To prevent that, this version begins with mashed potatoes, which are mixed with grated potato. Use a food processor with the grating attachment, or use the largest holes on a box grater. In any case, work fast, and fry the batter as soon as you make it. These are best eaten with a dollop of sour cream, right from the skillet, but you can keep latkes warm in a 300 degree oven for 30 minutes after frying.

3 large russet potatoes, peeled and left in a bowl of cold water

1 1/2 teaspoons salt, or to taste

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1/2 medium onion

1 egg, beaten to mix

1/4 cup flour

Canola oil (for frying)

1. Cut 2 of the potatoes into quarters. Put them in a large saucepan with water to cover. Add 1/2 teaspoon of the salt. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer the potatoes for 15 minutes or until they are tender when pierced with a fork.

2. Drain the potatoes and transfer them to a large shallow bowl. Use a potato masher to crush the potatoes until they are smooth. Add the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and pepper. Set aside to cool slightly.

3. Grate the onion and stir it, with any onion juices, into the mashed potatoes. Stir in the egg and flour.

4. Grate the remaining potato and stir it into the batter.

5. In a large nonstick skillet, add a thin film of the oil. When it is very hot but not smoking, add mounds of the batter with a large spoon, pressing the batter to flatten the latkes to make 4-inch rounds. Cook for 3 minutes or until the bottoms are golden. Use a wide metal spatula to turn the latkes and cook them for another 3 minutes or until they are golden on the other sides.

6. Drain the latkes on paper towels. Serve at once or transfer to a rimmed baking sheet and keep warm in a low oven. Fry the remaining batter in the same way, adding more oil to the pan if necessary. Sheryl Julian