Fast food moves beyond the burger

Fast food chains across the country are attempting to reverse the trend that accelerated when the first Big Mac rolled off the conveyor belt in 1968 -- all in response to America's expanding waistline.

A number of major chains have recently turned to salads, healthier sandwiches, even fruit, and their websites have been reformulated to allow for nutrition and ingredient information. For the most part, fast food establishments are trying to overhaul their image of being a repository for all things unhealthy. It seems to be working. Over the past year, fast food companies reported a 16 percent growth in servings of main dish salads, according to the market research firm NPD Group.

At McDonald's that means "premium salads" such as a Caesar with Paul Newman dressing and either grilled or crispy (read: fried) chicken.

Besides salads, the company has introduced sliced apples with caramel sauce in some markets as a substitute for fries. And on placemats, in addition to being tempted by the latest action figure or movie tie-in, customers can now peer down at a list of "healthy lifestyle" tips by Bob Greene, Oprah Winfrey's personal trainer. That's not to mention the new package design the company just unveiled that features photos such as an athlete crossing the finish line.

McDonald's is currently testing an adult meal that includes a stepometer and a "Step With It" booklet with any one of its entree salads, says spokeswoman Julie Pottebaum.

Other fast food chains have implemented similar plans. Wendy's has had four "garden sensations" salads on its menu since early 2000. Spokesman Bob Bertini says there are plans to add a spinach chicken salad and chicken strips salad this year. Wendy's is testing fruit cups (with honeydew and cantaloupe slices) in place of fries in its kids meals.

Although it lacks entree salads, Burger King has a veggie burger and a variety of chicken sandwiches. And KFC, the chain criticized for its "fried chicken can be part of a healthy, balanced diet" ad campaign, will introduce an oven-roasted chicken wrap in May.

Most nutritionists find the introduction of healthier fast food encouraging, but others are cautious. "I'm still concerned that just putting a salad on the menu won't necessarily encourage a person to eat it," says Dr. Eric Rimm, an associate professor of epidemiology and nutrition at Harvard. "It's a great first step, and I hope other fast food restaurants will follow."

Rimm has a more direct approach to putting fast food chains in line with better nutrition: more stringent government guidelines and simple grass-roots education. "We have to reeducate the adults and hope that gets passed on to children," he said. "Very few people at home have 24 or 30 ounces of soda."

Another Harvard expert said that improving nutrition will take some ingenuity and creativity on the part of fast food chains. "One thing that is really critical here is to make [healthful food] as attractive and tasty as junk food," said Walter Willett, chairman of Harvard School of Public Health's nutrition department and a Harvard Medical School professor and researcher. "There's no reason that can't happen." Willett offers the popularity of Subway as an example of fast food's more nutritional qualities.

The Subway chain is reporting one of the fastest growth rates in the industry. Menu items include low-calorie turkey, chicken, and tuna subs. And in a bow to the low-carbohydrate Atkins diet, Subway now has wraps (turkey and bacon melt and chicken bacon ranch). Last year, the company surpassed McDonald's in the number of outlets in the United States (13,247 vs. 13,099). "That was a big feather in our cap," says spokesman Les Winograd. Winograd says more wraps are on the horizon.

Whatever consumers may think of the burgeoning concept of healthy fast food, Gary Hirshberg has it almost down to a science. Hirshberg is the CEO of Stonyfield Farm, the yogurt producer, and a founder of O'Naturals, a small but growing chain of healthy fast food restaurants.

Hirshberg's goal is to expand and become the McDonald's of healthy fast food. "We want to emulate the fast food places in every respect, but we want to go further in terms of health."

O'Naturals customers seem to fall into two categories: experimenters or what Hirshberg terms "fast food refugees." One customer, Carolyn Medeiros, is in the latter camp. "There's so much obesity today among young children," she says, eating a salad at O'Naturals in Acton. "This is a good alternative." Medeiros, of Concord, was nibbling on greens sprinkled with blue cheese and balsamic vinaigrette while her two children, 6-year-old Marissa and 4-year-old Lauren, ate sliced flatbread and a turkey hot dog.

And the soda? Instead of a 24-ounce cup, Hirshberg's company offers all-natural Sky soda. Fewer calories and nutritionally better. But will the country buy it?