Phatt Boys

657 Washington St. (Route 138), Stoughton

Telephone: 781-341-5200

Hours: Monday- Wednesday, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Thursday-Sunday, 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m.

Handicapped accessible

Smoking, nonsmoking

Major credit cards

While the name may signal a hip-hop theme (our teenager was concerned we wouldn't fit in), Phatt Boys is comfortable for young folks and boomers alike. The dark wood dcor, cozy lighting, booths and tables in a multilevel dining area -- fully accessible via ramps -- offer a style that's hardly alternative. And on our visit, booths and long tables in the adjoining bar were filled with animated 20- and 30-somethings who looked pretty mainstream. With a television always within view (but with the sound down not too distracting), the feeling is more of a traditional sports bar.

So why the name?

"It means something new, something fresh, something hip, and something cool," said owner Fred Rash, who started the Brew Moon restaurants and opened Phatt Boys with business partner Scott Hartford. Rash said his ingredients are fresh and the menu, combining New England seafood, southern barbecue, and chops, is new to the restaurant scene.

Of the 14 appetizers (all intriguing), we were impressed with the thin-cut, beer-battered sweet Brick House onion rings ($4.95), served with Cajun aioli. A generous portion that came shaped into a brick, the rings were light and crispy. The Buffalo tenders ($6.50) were plump and juicy as advertised, basted in just the right amount of hot sauce and accompanied by a bleu cheese dip. The more exotic seared tuna carpaccio ($7.95) featured tasty slices of rare tuna on a sesame noodle salad, with ginger and wasabi soy mustard. Chili, chowders, and a nice variety of salads -- including seared tuna ($9.95), "firecracker" shrimp ($9.95), and sirloin ($10.95) -- as well as sandwiches and burgers ($5.95-$8.95) are also available on the lighter side.

Of the entrees our party ordered, the seared sea scallops in soy-ginger citrus glaze ($13.95) were scrumptious. An overabundance of sauce, however, flooded the accompanying "Mama's mashed potatoes," which were deliciously lumpy, as well as the colorfully presented julienne green and yellow beans with carrot strips.

The lobster and asparagus ravioli ($14.95) was satisfying, with big chunks of lobster inside pasta squares floating in a creamy bisque.

A half rack of the slow-smoked St. Louis ribs ($9.95) filled a plate, fell off the bone easily, and melted in the mouth.

And the herb-crusted New York sirloin ($15.95), a 14-ounce piece with mushroom demi glace and Gorgonzola butter, was done perfectly, and it was indeed deliciously crusted. While portions were generous, only one of us was able to leave a morsel on her plate.

Service was attentive, though dishes were left on the table a tad longer than some would have preferred.

Jose's sweet cakes ($3.95), a traditional Venezuelan dessert according to the menu, was a potpourri of fresh berries and three kinds of sweet cream soaked into a blond cake. Shared by four of us, it didn't last long.

The chocolate mousse cheesecake, two layers with whipped cream and raspberry coulis ($4.75), was another special meal-topper.

All in all, we agreed that Phatt Boys is a hoppin' place that makes for a pretty hip night out -- at least for the 'burbs.

PATTY MORIN FITZGERALD