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Open Wide for Boca Grande

There was a line almost out the door on a recent night when we walked past Boca Grande Taqueria just off Coolidge Corner. With that curb appeal, we had to go in to see what the fuss was all about. It's about more than tacos, though the tacos are very good.

Try the carnitas and cheese enchiladas, two corn tortillas stuffed with spicy meat and cheese and drizzled with a red sauce reminiscent of mole. (You can also get them with green sauce.) They come with rice and refried beans, all for $4. The tacos al pastor are another good choice: three small tortillas filled with chipotle-flavored pork and spiked with cilantro and diced purple onion. There's a cooling squiggle of guacamole-jalapeno sauce on top. The ingredients here are fresh, the sauces homemade daily. The place is pleasant but no frills. You order, cafeteria style, they make it right there -- watch the sizzling grill and the flying hands -- and you pay at the cash register. We fed four hungry people here for 25 bucks.

Boca Grande Taqueria 1294 Beacon St., Brookline. 617-739-3900. Two other locations: 149 First St., Cambridge. 617-354-5550; 1728 Mass. Ave., Cambridge. 617-354-7400.

-- BELLA ENGLISH

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