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Steaks scorecard

Most flavor
The California-raised dry-aged sirloin (14 ounces for $42) at Grill 23 & Bar has a deep meaty flavor and a complex texture with enough chew. The generous splash of butter on the New York strip at Ruth's Chris Steak House gives it a distinction all its own.

Cooked to a ''T"
Smith & Wollensky
's sirloin matched our medium-rare order exactly. Diners put their money on whether steak is cooked properly.

Dreamy sides
A traditional creamed spinach at Grill 23 & Bar was perfect (some versions elsewhere tasted metallic) and the puffy cottage fries and lightly battered onion strings at the Capital Grille were incredibly crisp.

Service with a smile
The staff at Ruth's Chris Steak House, the new guy in town, part of a more than 80-restaurant national chain, is friendly, smooth, and efficient. 

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