Upscale Thai, Chinese at Mango Grill

Mango Grill
38 Littleton Road (Rout 2A), Ayer
978-772-6988
www.mangogrillrestaurant.com
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, until 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday
Major credit cards accepted

What's the deal with mangoes? There are three restaurants in this area named Mango Grill -- in Andover, Tewksbury, and Ayer -- and they're not related.

The newest is on the main drag in Ayer, a mango's throw from the rotary, in a building that used to house the Autumn Wood Restaurant. It has been in business for about six months.

The motif is more Frank Lloyd Wright than one might expect of an Asian restaurant: all rectangular shapes, with alternating walls of solid terra cotta and putty. But the cuisine was mainly upscale Thai and Chinese fare.

Our hawk-eyed teenager zoomed in on the appetizer sampler, available for one ($8), two ($15), or more diners ($7.50 each). The platter for two was bountiful for the three of us. The plump egg rolls contained shredded cabbage, with delicate seasonings. The crab Rangoon boasted a more generous dollop of filling than expected, and the puffy chicken fingers ensconced a substantial center of chicken.

In addition to the typical chicken wings, there were massive fans of tender beef satay on skewers. Boneless ribs were julienne cut, moist and not fatty, which perhaps allowed the pork to absorb the maximum amount of a marinade that hinted of maraschino cherries.

Of the 19 house specialties -- from basil chicken ($11) to classic Peking duck ($32) -- eight were labeled hot and spicy. Another panel of the menu was devoted to Chinese cuisine ($8.50 to $13), consisting of familiar items such as General Gau's, Kung-Pao, and Moo-Shu entrees, all in a choice of tofu, beef, chicken, or shrimp.

Those who appreciate a good Thai curry would have perked up to see the three specials on a board at the entrance: red (spicy coconut), yellow (mild pineapple), and massaman (nutty and decidedly not spicy). The curry specials were available with tofu ($9), chicken ($10), beef ($11), or shrimp ($13).

This timid writer chose the massaman with tofu, a huge ceramic dish bursting with chunks of gently fried tofu and a cacophony of vegetables. There were pea pods, green beans, carrots, onion, peanuts, potatoes, green and red peppers, and soft onion rings, all bathed in a flavorful sauce.

My husband enjoyed the Happy Family ($14). The size and quantity of jumbo shrimp and plump scallops were downright jaw-dropping. The dish also included beef and chicken, sauteed with mixed vegetables in a pleasing sauce.

Our son rolled up his sleeves and dug into one of the five grill specialties, sirloin steak teriyaki ($15). The beef was a portion that one might expect in a steak house, and equally tender. The thick brown sauce tasted like a merger of soy and barbecue.

Each grill dish was available in a choice of spicy mango, aromatic peppery, or wild mushroom sauce. Filet mignon ($19), which seemed a tad unusual for Asian fare, was also available.

A touch of whimsy arrived with two of our dishes.

The sirloin steak was heralded by a 4-inch-tall pink rooster, carved from a large radish, supported through a toothpick onto a chunk of carrot.

The Happy Family came with a gardenia-like decoration of pinkish-orange hue, apparently peeled and tinted from the same radish.

For dessert, the Exotic Bomba ($7) was the size of a candlepin bowling ball and split into halves. Tangy mango, passion fruit, and raspberry sorbet were layered inside a white chocolate shell. If only we had left more room.

We also shared the coppa cafe ($7), described as ''fior-di-latte" gelato with coffee and pure cocoa swirl. This was something like ice milk with ribbons of flavoring, frozen inside a glass.

Daily lunch specials are available until 3 p.m., and banquets are available for a minimum of 10 guests at $30 each. Catering and take-out are also offered.

Given the top-notch quality and friendly service, diners probably can't go wrong with any of these options.

NANCY V. BURNS