Spanish spot in Marshfield is quickly making its mark
Hola Flatbreads and Tapas
10 Library Plaza, Marshfield
Telephone: 781-837-2900
Hours: Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, 5-9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5- 10 p.m. Closed Sunday and Monday.
Major credit cards except
No reservations
Accessible to the handicapped
They were only zucchini slices, but they were fried tender and crisp in beer batter and adorned with drizzles of aioli. They were so exquisite in texture and flavor, I knew at first bite I was in a soon-to-be-well-known place. Of course, I expected as much. When I learned that Maryann Saporito, the former owner and chef of Saporito's in Hull, had opened a new restaurant, I hurried to Marshfield to give it a try.
The name of the place is Hola Flatbread and Tapas. You drop the H and say "Ola," which is Spanish for "hello." It's located at the end of a strip mall across from the Marshfield library. Inside the lighting is subdued and the walls are painted to resemble brown leather. There's a bar serving beer and wine on one side and a long table in the center of the room where you can mingle with your fellow customers. There are smaller tables if your party prefers to be alone. The food is served on small plates, and you order as many or few as you desire.
Hola couldn't be more fashionable. Spanish food is in; small plates are in; wine bars are in. Even the noise is chic. The attractive young people who seem to be finding the place enjoy the hubbub.
People of all ages were enjoying food such as the zucchini slices ($6), which was a special of the day, as was a cod tostada ($11). The fish was fresh and faultlessly fried. It lay on a slightly sweet bed of spiced cabbage accompanied by tortilla chips, which seemed superfluous.
From the regular menu we enjoyed seared scallops spiced with marquen, which is a mixture of ground pomegranate seeds, pumpkin seeds, annatto, and mild chili. It's a seasoning the owner has been trying in various contexts lately.
She buys commercially baked flatbread, which she grills in olive oil to make the slices extra crisp. She adds topping and bakes them so they come out like crunchy pizza. My wife loved the clam flatbread with flecks of pickled jalapeño and Romano cheese ($10), and we both marveled at the flatbread topped with figs wrapped in salty prosciutto and surrounded by warm, gooey gorgonzola ($10.) The hot pepper among the clams, and the style of the fig flatbread, aren't exactly Spanish, but never mind. Hola is what it is.
"I thought Marshfield is really ready for something different," says Saporito.
The tuna ceviche ($9) consisted of two good-sized pieces of ruby fish that caught the light and glowed like jewels. These were lightly smoked, but not "cooked" in an acid marinade, which would have turned them opaque. Instead they were dressed in mango vinegar and chili oil, which brightened the flavor. They were sprinkled with black and white sesame seeds. This is not quite ceviche and not quite sashimi, but it's so divine in taste and texture, I suspect it's the tuna salad they serve in heaven.
Duck liver pâté ($8) was topped with a trickle of balsamic syrup and accompanied by membrillo, which is Spanish quince paste. The dried bread on which it was served was much too hard and called attention to itself. A slice of fresh baguette would have been better. This was the closest thing to a flaw in all the food I tried.
Only a handful of restaurants can give you a parade of treats and still wow you at dessert, but the churros ($5) were a spectacular finish. These little Spanish crullers were light, airy, crackling crisp, and piping hot. They were coated in cinnamon and sugar and could be dipped in melted chocolate. You won't find them any better in Madrid.
The little dishes at Hola are like snacks prepared by a top chef. If you love to try food in a group and talk about what you're eating, this is your kind of place. If you want something tasty while you enjoy a glass of wine, there's nowhere better. I enjoyed a bottle of cool, refreshing Spanish Albarino ($16). But stopping in for a cup of coffee and dessert is also an option. If you're watching your weight, you can have a tidbit and be on your way.
RICHMOND TALBOT
