Savant Project plays it cool
The people of Mission Hill don't have much to complain about anymore, at least when it comes to food.
Already, they've had the comforting cream cheese jalapeño poppers at Flann's and crisp salmon toasties at the Squealing Pig. And over the past five years, residents and neighborhood workers, many of whom are employed at Boston's hospitals, have celebrated the opening of a Stop & Shop and J.P. Licks, and new haunts such as the Mission, a casual and affordable spot that's sleek enough to please professionals.
And just a few weeks ago, Mission Hill got another new restaurant to add to the list, a curious bistro called the Savant Project. The Tremont Street space used to be the Solstice Cafe, which was serviceable for sandwiches and breakfast plates. Now, as the Savant Project, new owners Luis Sanchez and Ben Kraines have turned it into an urban hot spot where you can order inventive cocktails, fusion tapas, and burgers stuffed with cheese (not to be confused with cheeseburgers).
On a recent Saturday night, we stopped by the Savant Project to see what the weekend scene was all about. Even though much of its initial business has come from people on lunch break from Brigham and Women's, the restaurant has made it clear that it wants a nightlife crowd. Owners have brought in DJs and live music acts, and they've put effort into the bar business by having Boston's star bartender Clif Travers (he's created drinks for OM and Cuchi Cuchi) design their cocktail menu. It includes a "burnt orange cosmo" and a fruity "pama punch." One of us tried the "mangria," which was beefed up for boys with Yukon Jack.
Savant has an atmosphere for intimate dinners with tables for two and warm interiors that make the place glow red and gold. On the night we stopped by, a couple seated in a corner avoided the outside world while another pair in Red Sox gear sat at the bar to watch the second playoff game against Cleveland.
The tone of Savant is set by the music, which plays louder than it would during dinner hour at a similar restaurant. Owners say the diverse and somewhat loud soundtrack adds to the eclectic philosophy of the place, and we agreed. The mix we heard included Beastie Boys, Sneaker Pimps, and Michael Jackson's "Thriller." During a few indie-rock numbers, we played name that tune.
The Savant menu is described as Asian and Latin fusion, a spicy and filling blend. Our waitress recommended we start with truffled polenta logs, which came out as thick, weighty cornmeal sticks that we soaked in melted manchego cheese. The tuna sashimi and the slider were also tasty as starters, but not quite enough to satisfy our group of four.
With the exception of the steak frites, which were tough around the edges, the entrees were sizeable and delicious with surprises; the seared rare tuna steak sat beside an unexpected mound of applesauce and the veggie burger was a mealy pancake made thick with sweet potato instead of your average patty of greens.
As for desserts (there are only two on the menu), the sake drunken berry cup was difficult to share; it's pretty much a glass of sake blended with berries and whipped cream. But our group easily divvied up a sweet plate of crispy churros, finger-shaped donuts that we dunked into spicy melted chocolate. They will probably taste even better in the winter when we return to Savant to cuddle up, sip drinks, and listen for the next song.
The Savant Project, 1625 Tremont St., 617-566-5958. the savantproject.com. Tapas: $4.50 to $6. Entrees $11 to $18. Wines by the glass $6 to $10. Cocktails: $6.50 to $8.50. 