Comfortable and satisfying

Boston's by the Viaduct

Boston's by the Viaduct is a traditional American grill named for the 70-foot historic Canton Viaduct rail bridge a block away.

On our recent visit, we found ourselves comfortably at home in the large dining area and expansive adjacent lounge with fireplace, TVs, and oversized arm chairs. I swear I'm going to have a room like that in my house when I make my first million.

The menu was big. The six of us, picky eaters included, each found something to fill a particular craving.

The appetizers got us going. Boston's sampler platter ($10) was delicious. It comes with chicken tenders, mozzarella sticks, and loaded potato skins ($6-$8 each separately).

The homemade chicken tenders were excellent: tender, juicy, and flavorful. The fried cheese sticks were fairly standard. They were stringy and cheesy; you know what to expect there. The skins weren't bad, but I'm not a huge fan of the fat man's baked potato.

Another gripe about this dish is that it wasn't very filling; we could easily have ordered two, and probably would have if we hadn't gotten the fried calamari ($8) as well.

We tore through the calamari. Squid is an acquired taste, but it's often a default appetizer. You won't regret ordering it at Boston's.

Two more appetizers to keep on your radar: a large nacho plate ($9) with jalapenos, onions, olives, salsa, and jack cheese; and a Buffalo chicken dip ($9) with chicken, blue cheese, and Buffalo sauce mixed in a creamy dip, with fried tortillas for dipping. Be warned: Neither of these is for dieters.

I often feel you can judge a restaurant by its fish, and I usually don't order fish at a restaurant on a first visit. But I went with the baked Boston cod ($15) and it was delicious; flaky, and buttery. They top it with Ritz crackers and white wine sauce.

You can also get it battered and fried if you order the Boston's fish and chips ($14). There's also jumbo baked stuffed gulf shrimp ($19), a baked lobster pie with Maine lobster meat, cracker crumbs and butter ($24), and fried or baked scallops ($15).

If you're trying impress a date, Boston's has whole broiled lobster with drawn butter, cole slaw, and a baked potato or a platter of fried whole-belly New England clams (both market price).

There is a North End section to the menu. Both the chicken ($14) and veal ($15) Parmesan were memorable. The veal was tasty and not rubbery, and the chicken perfectly breaded and cooked to keep the flavor. You get a choice of angel hair, linguini, penne, or fettuccini.

For red meat lovers, a variety of steaks are available. The steak tips ($13) were juicy and very filling. They also come barbecue or teriyaki style. There's also a 14-ounce bone-in rib-eye cowboy steak ($21).

Boston's also offers a variety of burgers and sandwiches, including a build-your-own half-pound burger ($8 plus 50 cents each topping), a lobster roll ($19), a veggie burger ($8), and red pastrami on a bulkie roll ($7).

You can also order a 10-inch pizza with any of about two-dozen toppings ($5.75 plus 50 cents per topping).

JOHN GUILFOIL