Noted chefs' new spot is fresh and saucy

Summer Winter

The change of seasons is one of the highlights of living in New England. New seasons bring new scents, flavors, and tastes, and this is exactly what the owners of Summer Winter had in mind when creating their newest restaurant, which opened in November.

Clark Frasier and Mark Gaier are nationally renowned chefs and the owners of two popular restaurants in Ogunquit, Maine - Arrows and MC Perkins Cove. The two men were looking to expand their horizons when they were approached by a general manager of the Burlington Marriott. Through a partnership with the hotel, Frasier and Gaier have developed a dining experience that reflects seasonal flavors with twists to American fare.

A friend and I recently visited Summer Winter, which seats 150 people, and were immediately impressed by the cozy but chic atmosphere. The restaurant is in the hotel but off to the side, so it feels like it stands alone. Staff was friendly and inviting.

From our spacious table in the comfortable dining room, designed with a variety of stone and wood elements, there was a view of the year-round greenhouse, which supplies the restaurant with herbs and greens. A full-time gardener runs the greenhouse.

As we looked over the menu, we were served a selection of tasty breads. We quickly decided on our appetizer, Clark's crab cakes with remoulade and cole slaw ($14). The bite-size cakes were crispy on the outside, creamy on the inside, and the tangy but creamy dipping sauce complemented the dish.

Family-style dining is encouraged, and there are even several selections designed for two people to share, including a whole roasted chicken with lemon and garlic, and a rib eye steak.

To experience the herbs grown on-site, I ordered the plank roasted fish with herbs ($29), which on this day was halibut (the fish selection changes almost daily). With a choice of starch and sauce, I chose the baked potato and, following a suggestion by our server, Mom's Sauce.

My friend ordered the hanger steak ($25) with bearnaise sauce and french fries. Since we were already filling up on bread and crab cakes, we decided to forgo the tempting side dishes, including baby bok choy, creamed spinach, herb-roasted parsnips, and more ($6 and up).

The large-portion entrees came out in a timely manner and were well presented. Like the menu indicated, the halibut was on a wooden plank, and beneath the fish were fragrant herbs and spices. Mom's Sauce, which was similar to a balsamic vinegar dressing, was the perfect addition to the already tasty halibut. I couldn't quite finish the oversized baked potato, topped with bacon, sour cream, and chives.

The hanger steak was hearty, and the creamy bearnaise was a great match. My friend enjoyed the fries, a smaller version of steak fries that were crispy and delicious.

While we felt extremely satisfied, we just couldn't say no to dessert. Summer Winter's pastry chef creates desserts specifically for the restaurant, and selections include a devil's food cake with chocolate icing, a lemon meringue tartlet, and an ice cream bomb with peanut butter and chocolate ($8), which is what we decided to share.

The bomb is a mound of ice cream coated in smooth, soft chocolate with a side of sweet and salty peanut brittle. The vanilla-based ice cream contained peanuts, and in the center of the ice cream was a solid chocolate treat.

Pleased with our appetizer and entrees, I was surprised to discover that the dessert was the highlight of our night. We haven't stopped talking about it.

NICOLE DINOIA