Old rail depot is worth a stop for good food

Village Grille

With good food served at reasonable prices by a pleasant wait staff, it's an easy decision to visit the Village Grille in Chelmsford. Finding the restaurant, however, can be more difficult.

"We'll have been open for one year this May, and we hear all the time from people who say they never knew we were here," said chef Allan Curtis of Nashua, who owns the restaurant with his sister-in-law, Pauline Curtis of Wilmington.

Since the eatery is in a renovated railroad depot to the right of the more visible Traveling Rhino antiques and gift store in Central Square, drivers must contend with a confusing intersection. Once inside, however, diners are rewarded for their effort.

The Village Grille seats only 22 on the first floor and 24 on the loft-style second floor. The tables are close together, but the intimate seating area is comfortable. The short distance to the kitchen ensures efficient service, with drinks and baskets of dinner rolls and an olive oil-and-herb dipping sauce quickly replenished.

Our four-person party started with two appetizers. The eggplant rollatini ($5) is a single, long roll of sliced eggplant filled with creamy ricotta and mozzarella cheeses and baked with a light and tangy basil marinara sauce. The two New England crab cakes ($7) were thinly breaded so they were slightly crispy on the outside and tender and flavorful on the inside. The accompanying roasted red pepper remoulade left us wanting more.

According to Curtis, the menu was redesigned to allow diners to order a full meal for lunch or a sandwich or wrap for dinner. Our group, however, went straight for the entrees.

Several plump lobster ravioli ($15) were served in a creamy tomato basil sauce containing a generous amount of additional lobster chunks. The chicken and spaghetti alla carbonara ($12) was a generous portion of tender grilled chicken chunks tossed with fresh peas and onions in a savory pancetta and parmesan sauce that clung to the penne (not spaghetti) without being too heavy.

The baked stuffed shrimp ($14) was a surprise for the diner who expected the seven large shrimp to be placed individually on a plate rather than covered with the crabmeat and cracker stuffing and baked in a casserole dish. However, she enjoyed the fresh shrimp as well as the accompanying buttery, sliced carrots and garlic mashed potatoes.

The Caribbean pork tenderloin ($12) has a pleasing aroma and flavor that is at once tangy, sweet, and smoky from a dry rub of chili powder, cinnamon, and island spices and glaze of red pepper sauce, brown sugar, and garlic sauce. The pork itself was sliced thin and cooked so perfectly that the side items of black beans and buttery white rice with diced carrots and peas seemed bland in comparison. The tropical salsa, on the other hand, was a refreshing complement.

Since there were four desserts ($4 each), we ordered one of each. The chocolate cake was dense and rich, with a fudgy texture. The creme brulee cheesecake had a smooth, silky caramel topping that didn't quite match the decorative strawberry sauce. The carrot cake was a little dry, though the exceptionally moist cream cheese frosting more than made up for it. The key lime pie was nice and tart, with a soft graham cracker crust. While these desserts are supplied to the Village Grille, Curtis said a chef has been hired to begin making some in-house.

An assortment of individually wrapped baked goods is available at the door. Take-out items include bags of homemade potato chips ($4) made daily, though they often sell out before the dinner crowd has a chance to sample them.

CINDY CANTRELL