Mr. Chef's
490 Washington St., Stoughton
781-341-8838
Hours: Monday-Thursday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.,
Friday-Saturday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.,
Sunday 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Major credit cards accepted
Accessible to handicapped
When you've grown up with home-style, old-world Chinese food, it's hard to muster enthusiasm for the meals served in many suburban Chinese-American restaurants. So it was gratifying to discover a stylish place in Stoughton that defies the stereotype earned by bad Chinese food.
Mr. Chef's restaurant offers a range of Chinese cuisine styles and a smattering of Japanese dishes, mainly sushi. Co-owner Michael Huang also serves as sushi chef; previously he was head chef at New Ginza in Watertown for seven years.
The restaurant, which opened last summer, is sleek and soothing, with lots of light wood and large windows. Frosted-glass windows that provide privacy while letting in light, and a waterfall room divider in the dining area are nice touches.
An order of maki combo ($15) from the entree section served as a delicious appetizer for our family of four. The tuna maki, salmon maki, and California roll were fresh and clean-tasting, with quality comparable to sushi found in Boston. The dish also came with a salad and a bowl of miso soup.
Neptune's Blessing ($14) was a mixture of shrimp, scallops, lobster, and an assortment of vegetables in a light sauce. The seafood was fresh and cooked perfectly, but the dish would have been better with more lobster. The Imperial Shrimp ($13) was a beautiful platter of about 10 jumbo shrimp, lightly coated with lotus flour, and tossed in a creamy white yogurt sauce, with fresh strawberry, pineapple, and mango slices.
The house special fried rice ($7.20) was delicate and flavorful, with lots of peas, egg, char siu (Chinese barbecue pork), and onions. This is what Mom used to make, so unlike the soy-drowned, salty concoction that passes as fried rice in some Polynesian-style places.
Ma po tofu ($7) was a generous plate of silky diced tofu and minced pork in a spicy sauce, perfect over rice. We ordered it mild, and the light chili heat added just the right amount of kick.
The dessert menu is small, but don't miss the fried honey banana ($3.50) sliced into six pieces, drizzled with honey, sprinkled with sesame seeds, and garnished with an orchid flower. The red bean ice cream ($3.50) is two scoops of creamy mauve-colored ice cream with whole sweet red beans, topped with sauce of red bean paste.
Mr. Chef's also offers what they call "old-time favorites," such as chop suey and egg foo young. There are also lunch and dinner specials, with egg rolls, crab rangoon, and other appetizers. Order these if you must, but try some of the more authentic dishes that Mr. Chef's does so well.
You won't be disappointed.
WENDY CHOW
