Wide selection, reasonable prices at Marco's on Mill

Marco's on Mill Street
1 Mill St., Lawrence
978-687-9100, marcoslawrence.com
Open Tuesday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.; Friday, 11:30 a.m to 10:30 p.m.; Saturday, 4:30 p.m. to 11 p.m.
Major credit cards accepted
Live music Friday and Saturday in the lounge

Dad likes Mexican cuisine, but Mom would rather try French. Your brother eats only pasta. Your best friend/sister/significant other can't stand bar food, but you would happily live on wings alone.

Enter Marco's, where the menu is so wide-ranging you can't help but find a compromise.

With influences from the Middle East, Mexico, the Caribbean, and even China, the menu reads like a discombobulated travel guide. My dining partner complained that she couldn't put together a meal that "made sense," but I saw it as a chance for a culinary grand tour. After all, who says you can't order chili cheese fries ($6) alongside your Kibbee Pocket sandwich ($9)? Or gambas al ajillo ($10) as a prelude to your cheeseburger ($9)? Granted, too much diversity on the menu can make for weak spots, and certain dishes at Marco's could certainly use improvement. For the most part, though, it's a good place to get a reasonably priced meal.

Despite the international menu, the setting at Marco's is decidedly New England. The restaurant is in the former Washington Mill, built in 1886, and the restaurant reflects the rich heritage of the textile industry. The exposed brick walls are decorated with photos of the original building and images of the town in its heyday.

Portions are generous, if not heaping, so appetizers are easy to share between two or more. The fried calamari ($8) was crisp and sizzling, dressed up with banana peppers and lemony mayonnaise, but a little on the greasy side. Skip the dry, crumbly croquetas de pollo ($8) in favor of the tasty duck à l'orange bundles ($10). These flaky phyllo pouches burst with tender, juicy duck meat. Just make sure you have the right dipping sauce - our waitress brought tomato ranch instead of orange sesame. The 7-layer dip ($10) was fresh and nicely presented, but conventional.

Marco's offers a variety of main courses that rival the appetizers in size and eclecticism. The Mediterranean roll-up with lamb ($11), packed with tabbouleh and drizzled with tahini, was flavorful and well prepared. The roll-up was served with a mound of thin and crispy sweet potato fries, which my dining companion instantly termed "addictive."

The pork chop ($16) with apple and Gorgonzola stuffing sounded promising, but arrived slightly overcooked and heavily overpowered by too much Gorgonzola. Fortunately, the dish was saved by fluffy mashed potatoes and fresh green beans.

On one visit we tried the Strange Voodoo salad ($10), a delightful combination of spinach, apples, pancetta, raisins, and pine nuts drizzled with maple cider dressing.

Most impressive was the chicken Parmesan with linguine ($12). The cutlets were tender, with crisp seasoned breading on the outside. They were served atop an enormous bowl of linguine with a generous splash of marinara and accompanied by a slice of warm, buttery garlic bread.

Most of the desserts at Marco's come from bakeries in Boston or nearby, so the selection varies. If the white chocolate twist cake ($6) happens to be on offer, don't resist. This spongy, moist cake is a delicious medley of raspberry, white chocolate, and almonds. Another good option is the turtle cheesecake ($6), a smooth but rich dessert topped with caramel and nuts.

During both of my visits to Marco's, the service was a bit lacking. The waitresses were friendly but forgot to refill water, or seemed uncertain about the composition of a particular dish. I had to ask for the garlic bread that should have arrived with my chicken Parmesan. Fortunately, though, the staff was receptive to questions and delivered our food promptly, with a smile.

Marco's may not be remarkable, but it's certainly more than run of the mill.

EMILY T. SIMON