A grand-slam dunk

The ultimate jelly donut - light but not dainty, delicately crisp, with quality jelly - is hard to find. Oh, but the reward is worth the effort.

Armed with a thermos of black coffee, we recited this Saturday-morning mantra as we pounded the pavement in search of the area's ultimate jellies. After too many artificial air puffs of squishy dough jammed with unbearably sweet jam, we finally scored at Kane's Donuts in Saugus and Betty Ann Food Shop in East Boston. Both made their donuts from scratch, and both have been practicing their game since the era of wooden rackets (Kane's since 1955, Betty Ann Food Shop since 1931).

The oblong jellies from Kane's combined sugary, crisp, golden pockets of dough with black raspberry jelly. A fine opening serve. But the old-fashioned beauties from Betty Ann returned every deft play with even nimbler moves of their own. The mahogany orbs (smaller than a tennis ball) were served fresh from the fryer after a dip in sugar, the still-warm dough airy and yeasty. Betty Ann smartly stuffed the donuts with a red raspberry jelly that was a bit tart, deftly counterbalancing the sweetness.

In the end, we're not sure if it was something in the air (thick, sweet, and heady with the aroma of frying dough), the charming packaging (brown paper sack), or the even more charming yesteryear price (40 cents). But in this Davis Cup of donuts, Betty Ann Food Shop scored too many points to tally.

Advantage, Betty Ann Food Shop.

TRY IT TODAY

Jelly donut (left),

40 cents

Betty Ann Food Shop, 565 Bennington St., East Boston. 617-567-1479.

JUST TRY IT, ALREADY

Jelly donut, $1.31

Kane's Donuts, 120 Lincoln Ave., Saugus. 781-233-8499.