A sports bar, and then some
An early taste of what's new on the restaurant scene
Something about DJ's at the Garden reminded us of Hooters.
Maybe it was the vibe of DJ's. Or its shape. Or the all-female wait-staff dressed in tight green T-shirts in honor of that night's Celtics playoff game. Whatever the reason, we felt a Hooters vibe, which makes sense, because as it turns out, DJ's, the latest expansive sports bar in the shadow of the TD Banknorth Garden, used to be a Hooters.
Of course, the orange and white décor is gone. The Hooters menus are gone. The Hooters staff is gone. What's now in the space is a new restaurant run by Dave Greaney (of the Junction in South Boston) that's unpretentious and casual. It's a place where you can be over 40 and watch a game without feeling old. It's a place where you can comfortably host work mixers and birthday parties. It's a place where you might hear Eddie Murphy's "Party All the Time" and see someone singing along. It's something like the Greatest Bar down the street - but with less of a nightlife vibe.
DJ's also has a menu that aims to please patrons looking for something more than sports-bar eats.
Turns out this isn't just a burger-and-fries joint, although those items are certainly on the menu.
Thanks to chef Josh Davis, who worked for the Cambridge Brewing Company before cooking at restaurants in San Francisco, Seattle, and New York City, DJ's also features teriyaki pork meatballs, Guinness-braised short ribs, and ginger-soy salmon salad. Not bad for Friend Street, right?
We started with two of the more ambitious-sounding appetizers, the beer-battered Brie and the hummus. The Brie - or more specifically, its crispy, fried beer shell - was delicious, but was topped with a fruit compote that tasted more like basic jelly. The mound of cheese came with thin, round crackers that reminded us of communion.
The hummus, which our waitress boasted was house-made, tasted that way; it was good and chunky but had a bit too much tahini. It was served with warm and soft pita slices.
DJ's spinach and goat cheese salad was just that, a hefty pile of green leaves topped with chunks of fresh cheese, walnuts, and tasty mushrooms. With chicken or shrimp on top, it would have been a full meal.
Thanks to Davis's time in San Francisco, where he says he focused on seafood, both the jumbo lump crab sandwich and the fish tacos were choice treats. The crab was topped with panko breadcrumbs and slathered with a spicy pink tartar sauce (we recommend getting the sauce on the side). We were delighted that the fish tacos were simple, fresh, and not fried.
But the best item was the burger - the Paddy melt, to be specific. The thick meat patty was topped with Irish cheddar, leeks, and Marie Rose sauce, which is an Irish version of Russian dressing made with whiskey. Our server recommended this plate over the more expensive ribs and after one bite, we were happy we took her advice.
Of course, we might not return to DJ's for a while, at least not until we're back by the Garden (Alicia Keys and George Michael are on their way). There's no particular reason to visit DJ's unless you work in the Bullfinch neighborhood or are Garden-bound. But, if you are, DJ's is a fine choice for the casual vibe of an easy-going sports bar and a menu that's much more.
Meredith Goldstein can be reached at mgoldstein@globe.com.
DJ's at the Garden, 222 Friend St., 617-723-3222. djsatthegarden.com. Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily for food, bar open Sunday to Wednesday until midnight (extended hours on Garden event nights) and Thursday to Saturday until 2 a.m. Appetizers: $6.95 to $10.95. Entrees: $8.95 to $20.95. Wine by the bottle: $25 to $50. Wine by the glass: $6 to $10. Beer: $4 to $10. 