ESPERIA GRILL & ROTISSERIE, 344 Washington St., Brighton Center, 617-254-8337. esperiagrill.com. Efthymios (Tim) and Georgia Athanasiadis ran Center House of Pizza in Brighton Center for 20 years, then turned it into an authentic Greek kouzina. This is real home cooking with dishes such as baked lamb shank and moussaka. Juicy kebabs come two skewers to the plate and you choose sides (Greek-style roast potatoes are the way to go). Georgia is a brilliant baker. Don't miss her exceptional spanakopita or any of her desserts, including galaktobourika (custard-filled phyllo) or small, buttery, doughnut-shaped koulourakia. Not all this food is fast; good home cooking never is.
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