Just like home by way of Korea

(Pat greenhouse/globe staff)

After placing your order at Han River, a Korean restaurant in Brookline, the owner might scoot a stool out from behind the counter for you to perch on; while you wait, an electric teapot on a side table keeps green tea warm for sipping. The tiny spot fills up fast with families and groups of teenagers sharing plates of marinated short ribs called gal bi ($10.95), bi bim bop ($8), and duk bok ki ($8; below), a stir-fried mix of rice cakes, fish cakes, veggies, and dumplings. Between the basic menu, the tight quarters, and the no-frills, friendly service, dinner at Han River is like a visit to a friend's tiny apartment kitchen for a dish they make weekly - familiar, charming, and tasty. Han River, 1009 Beacon St., Brookline, 617-739-6221. - LEIGH BELANGER