New bistro is a work in progress
G Bar & Kitchen 256 Humphrey St., Swampscott
781-596-2228; gbarandkitchen.com
Open daily from 5 to 10 p.m.
Credit cards accepted
Accessible to the handicapped
No reservations
For decades, restaurateurs have gallantly brought their recipes - and dreams - to the seaside town of Swampscott only to figure out after a few years that it's nearly impossible to draw a regular set of diners. In the last year, even representatives of longstanding chains such as Friendly's and Bickford's have folded, joining a virtual restaurant heaven where memorial candles flicker for departed eateries such as Gourmet Galley, The Cutting Board, and Black Will's.
So in these difficult economic times, it's inspiring to see a new restaurant. G Bar & Kitchen opened six weeks ago in a former day spa next to the estimable Newman's Bakery on Humphrey Street. The restaurant's name is a nod to owner Gregg Brackman, who spent years as a chef in restaurants and hotels and has now followed his dream of opening a bistro by the water.
At first glance, the restaurant reveals sleek angles in a small dining room that fits fewer than 50. The crushed green velour chairs are a nice touch, and there's a small, well-stocked bar if you prefer sitting on high stools. That said, it's clear that they're still ironing out some details. In short, the food was better than average, the service grades below that.
We arrived minutes after the restaurant opened on Mother's Day and were the first to be seated. As we all know, most restaurants know how to make a good meal, but alas, that's not the only reason to go to dinner. If you're spending more than $100 on a night out, you want to soak up the ambience, and make it one of the highlights of your day or week. But, in truth, that's where G sorely needs help.
Attitude is everything in this business, and our server actually appeared unhappy to be serving us. We tried charm, and smiled when she asked if we'd like bottled water or the "house tap" (which we chose). Several minutes after ordering, I had to ask for bread and olive oil. (There was one positive social interaction. Later in the evening, Brackman made his way around the tables, introducing himself and asked if everything was acceptable.)
Even ordering a drink was frustrating. When I requested the best house red wine, I was met with silence. Finally, I ordered a glass of 2006 MacMurray pinot noir ($11), which did not disappoint.
Fortunately, the food lived up to its hype. The arugula Caesar ($7) was a medley of arugula and romaine with creamy house dressing and crispy Parmesan croutons. Like everything else we sampled, this was not a large portion, but was a fine mix with a consistent dressing.
Likewise, the simple salad ($7) was equally fresh, featuring baby greens, bell pepper, red onion, and cucumber in Parmesan and a red wine vinaigrette.
Our entrees were also modestly sized but filling. The gnocchi ($16), covered with a tomato and Romano sauce, was delicious. The verdure al forno ($20), a semolina-encrusted eggplant, zucchini, and squash offering, was acceptable but could have used spices. The swordfish filet ($28) was fresh and flaky, served on a bed of warm couscous.
For dessert, we sampled the chocolate, chocolate, chocolate cake . . . period, which is how it is listed on the menu. It was a $7 purchase that tasted like a Duncan Hines offering.
Again, this is a work in progress. Maybe next year, they'll just have a simple chocolate cake.
STEVEN ROSENBERG 