The food will improve your view

The bar at Sixty2 on Wharf is one of three rooms where you can dine or enjoy a drink. (LISA POOLE FOR THE BOSTON GLOBE)

An early taste of what's new on the restaurant scene

When we first heard the name Sixty2 on Wharf, we imagined eating shrimp cocktails on a deck looking out over the water. When we read "Tell your friends 'Meet me at Sixty2!' " on the website, we pictured a buzzing bar scene. We really didn't think much about the new Salem restaurant's food. There would be a view of the water and a lively crowd - so what if it wasn't great?

But when we got to Pickering Wharf, we realized Sixty2 had no water view, merely a parking lot muted by filmy curtains. And the bar crowd failed to materialize. In fact, on a Friday night, the place was half empty and eerily quiet. We were disappointed already, and we hadn't even sat down.

Then we sunk our teeth into a crunchy French breakfast radish slathered in creamy whole-milk ricotta and kissed by olive oil and sea salt. We polished off the salt cod and potato brandade - rich, crispy little fritters that were surprisingly light on the tongue. And suddenly the food was all that mattered.

The restaurant is divided into three distinct rooms: the entrance and lounge area, which has an abstract mural of the staff on the wall; a dining room, with floral wall paintings bursting out of their frames; and a second dining room behind a set of French doors. Apparently the restaurant was noisy when it first opened, so the owner added acoustic paneling on the ceilings, which definitely keeps things quiet. Even with a muted jazz-funk soundtrack, we could hear people's conversations at nearby tables - if only we could have heard what the blonde in thick black eyeliner was saying to the much younger man across from her.

We tried to order a bottle of cabernet franc, recommended by the Globe's wine writer, but 10 minutes later the manager appeared to tell us he couldn't find it. After we heard him refer to our selection as a bold "smoker's wine," though, we happily switched to a lighter Bordeaux. Somehow it helped that he was wearing ripped jeans; despite all the $90 and $100 bottles, Sixty2 on Wharf is not a pretentious place.

Chef and owner Antonio Bettencourt, a former executive sous chef at UpStairs on the Square who opened Tomasso Trattoria in Southborough, puts the focus on French and Italian fare, but he's also influenced by his Brazilian and Portuguese roots. "I wanted to be able to cook whatever caught my fancy," he says.

One thing that caught our fancy was the cool, buttery torchon of foie gras with a cherry gastrique and fresh cherries. "Sorry Mr. Goose," one diner said as he smeared the foie gras on brioche. "You died for a good cause." The prosciutto starter, served on a slab of slate with cubes of watermelon and ricotta, was a fresh, comparatively guilt-free antidote.

The scallops were sweet and creamy, with a nice crust, and fresh, barely soft ramps added a nice kick, but the wild mushroom and English pea mixture was over-salted. Same with the flatiron steak, which was a bit dry and accompanied by a too-salty gratin of white asparagus, potatoes, and fennel. Maybe the fact that Bettencourt was at the hospital awaiting the birth of his daughter the night we visited had something to do with it.

Thank goodness for dessert, namely the warm toffee pudding with melty ice cream. The pudding, made in-house like all the desserts at Sixty2, looked like a perfectly boring upside-down bran muffin until we dug in and tasted the sticky, sugary goodness inside. There was even heated cream for our coffee.

We left with our initial disappointment far behind us. You may not be able to see the water at Sixty2 on Wharf, but it's close by. And the food and the attentive service may make you forget that's what you wanted in the first place.

Sixty2 on Wharf, 62 Wharf St., Salem. 978-744-0062. 62onwharf.com Entrees $21-$26. Wines by the glass $9-$19.