Precinct report: relaxing atmosphere

Precinct, formerly the site of Toast Lounge, is a subterranean bar and restaurant in Somerville. (JOHN BOHN/GLOBE STAFF)

A confession: We had a bad attitude just before entering Precinct. A sign on the pavement advertised all the sports games it would be broadcasting that day. And as we waited outside for our dining guests, one of us sourly recalled how he had the worst meal of his life here, back when Precinct was Toast Lounge.

As we descended into the subterranean bar and restaurant, it was virtually empty, save for the few folks enjoying a Sunday evening pint at the bar. We figured it would be hopping since it was 7 p.m., just two hours before Game 5 of the Celtics-Lakers showdown. No one was watching the oversized flat screens, so we asked if we could change the channel. A few minutes later, Tiger Woods was surrounding us in all his comeback glory.

A cursory look at the menu set eyes rolling. It's a small feat to get excited about spinach and artichoke dip, shepherd's pie, and chicken parm over pasta. That's all fine, of course, but does Boston really need another place serving pub-grub staples?

In a word, yes. Imagine our surprise (and remorse) when we discovered that Precinct is about as good as it gets for your neighborhood bar where you can get a good bite, watch a game, and, if you stick around long enough, catch some local music in the back room until last call.

Precinct looks and feels a lot different than its previous tenant. Toast Lounge had more of a nightlife reputation, attracting sizable weekend crowds with its popular dance nights. Even though it was served, food was an afterthought.

Not anymore. Precinct is owned by the same folks who ran Toast (even the website is still toastlounge.com), but the new managers have renovated the front bar area with mahogany interiors and low lights that give it an amber cast. It looks and feels like a pub, right down to a sweet, no-nonsense waitress. When mistakes happened, she tackled them head on. When a flat beer came out, she recognized it and immediately returned with another, full head intact.

Precinct's menu doesn't challenge you, which can be nice when you just want to relax and hang out with friends. Either you like pasta dishes, sandwiches, burgers, and salads, or you don't. The appetizers, too, are nearly unimpeachable; after all, you can't really mess up fried popcorn shrimp or potstickers. The grilled sausage plate, however, we could have, and should have, made at home.

We were curious about the entree described as "Fresh pasta."

"Do you make your pasta here?," we wanted to know.

"No," said our server.

"So why is it called 'fresh pasta'?"

"Because all of the ingredients are fresh."

Well, shouldn't all ingredients be fresh? But the pan-seared haddock soon quashed any complaints. Rich and moist, it was lightly fried and came with an aromatic side of jasmine rice. Only the peas tasted like Del Monte had been involved. A simple margarita pizza was anything but: crispy crust, a nice balance of ingredients, topped with a hearty helping of garlic. And that chicken parmesan I had turned up my nose at earlier in the evening? It was the best rendition of the old standby I've ever had; the leftovers tasted even better the next day.

By the time the fried cheesecake came out (stop snickering - it was delicious), Precinct had filled up with Celtics fans ordering drinks and food and directing their attention to the TVs overheard. They had come to the right place.

Precinct, 70 Union Square , Somerville, 617-623-9211, toastlounge.com. Sandwiches: $8. Entrees: $10-$18. Wines by the glass: $6-$9.