Bringing home the bacon

The bacon-infused Bloody Mary at Church. (JIM DAVIS/GLOBE STAFF)

It sounds like something only Homer Simpson could love, but at some local bars, bacon-infused alcohols are becoming an increasingly popular reality. The idea is a bit off-putting at first, but when you think about it in the context of a Bloody Mary, which is how they serve it at brunch at Church, (garnished with a flash-fried, bacon-wrapped cherry tomato and spiced up with intense smoked Mexican sea salt, $8) it starts to make more sense. "We infuse vodka with bacon, thyme, and bay leaves," explains bartender Kevin MacKinnon, "then let it set for 10 days to two weeks." Over time, the vodka absorbs much of the meaty, salty flavor of the bacon, and after the fat separates and is removed you're left with a smoky infusion perfect for savory cocktails.

The flavor palate they're experimenting with at Stix is a bit wider, but it still all comes down to the meat. Although in this case it's bacon-flavored bourbon, and the process, known as a fat washing, is different from a typical infusion. Essentially, beverage director Paul Westerkamp renders bacon, combines the grease with Woodford Reserve bourbon, freezes it, pokes a hole in the upper frozen layer, and then drains and filters the liquid. It makes for a subtle blend that is surprisingly versatile. The Smoked Apple Bacon Martini (all drinks $14-16) made with Applekorn schnapps is basically a pork chop and apple sauce martini, but light and drinkable. Other creations that maintain that food-you-can-drink approach are the Bacon and Eggs Sour, a frothy, sour, meaty, fruity cocktail made with egg whites and sour mix, and the Blueberry Pancakes and Bacon with maple syrup and muddled blueberries. It's like brunch in a glass. Now if someone would just get to work on alcoholic donuts.

Word to the wise: If you want to try any of these drinks, you might want to go quick. Jake's Dixie Roadhouse & BBQ in Waltham recently had to take its bacon-infused vodka off the menu pending a review by the Alcohol Beverages Control Commission.

Stix, 35 Stanhope St., Boston. 617-451-7849. www.stixboston .com; Church, 69 Kilmarnock St., Boston. 617-236-7600. www. churchofboston.com