Orta has diners clamoring to get in

Joanie Wilson and Jimmy Burke (left) combined their restaurant expertise to open the Italian-fusion Orta Restaurant in Pembroke last month. Above, Mary Cabral gets ground pepper on her salmon entree, a popular dish that runs out quickly. (Photos by Maureen Costello for the boston globe)

Orta Restaurant
75 Washington St., Pembroke
Sunday, Tuesday, and Wednesday, 5 to 9 p.m.; Thursday through Saturday, 5 to 10 p.m.
781-826-8883; www.ortarestaurant.com
Reservations for parties of six or more
Major credit cards accepted
Accessible to the handicapped

The latest venture of restaurateurs Joanie Wilson and Jimmy Burke had been open for less than two weeks, and customers were already clamoring for tables.

Before business on a recent Saturday, Wilson was briefing the staff on the pronunciation of imported wines and details of the evening special, when patrons began coming through the door.

"I was in the middle of having our employees try the special so they could explain it to customers," said Wilson. "I had to lock the front door."

The fuss is understandable. Since opening on Jan. 15, Orta has been offering a lot to like, from the accommodating wait staff to the reasonable prices. I was especially impressed with how healthy the food was beneath its delicate, savory seasonings.

Sundays seldom draw the same crowds as Saturdays, yet few tables were available when I arrived with my aunt around 6 p.m. Maybe word was out that Wilson and her husband, Burke, were fusing their culinary skills with Italian cuisine.

Wilson has been in the restaurant business since 1980 and owned the Varsity Club, a chain of three sports-oriented restaurants on the South Shore. Burke owned and operated the Tuscan Grill and Allegro Restaurant, both in Waltham, as well as Tullio's in Quincy, several locations of the Iguana Cantina, and most recently Riva in Scituate. Those restaurants were sold, but the couple plan to continue managing the restaurant at the Scituate Harbor Yacht Club this summer.

Burke admits he was excited when the location of the former Vesuvius Restaurant became available, yet nervous about opening up in a weak economy. "Joanie really pushed the issue," he said. "She was confident that if we had the right combination of the right food and the right pricing, there would be a demand for it."

Named after a lakeside village in the foothills of the Italian Alps where they honeymooned, Orta offers flavors from every region of Italy. A $5 glass of Frascati Superior 2007 is a common table wine in Roman restaurants. A bottle costs $19. Orta offers an extensive wine list and a full bar.

We were seated at a black wooden table in a windowed alcove. A basket of small squares of fresh focaccia was served, though we did have to request olive oil for dipping. As if a precursor to the rest of our meal, the bread was simple, topped with a light herb seasoning, and was satisfying but not filling.

As we looked over the menu, we were pleased with our selection from the piattini ("little plates") segment. (All appetizers are $4.) One dish consisted of crispy bread topped with three plump shrimp and drizzled with a sauce of white wine, garlic, butter, and fresh herbs. Designed as Spanish tapas, or a snack for one, it was ideal for two.

Orta has a wide selection of antipasto ranging from suppli al telefono - fried rice balls with mozzarella and basil filling ($7) - to roasted stuffed peppers with ground sausage covered in marina sauce ($9). We selected one of the three salads, a roasted pear sitting on a plate of crisp arugula ($8). Shavings of Asiago offered a hint of deep-woods Alps balanced with the salty crunch of spiced pecans.

We overheard the staff talking about one remaining serving of pistachio- and panko-crusted salmon with artichokes and a lemon-butter, white wine sauce ($17.75), which made us think we'd be missing out on something if we didn't grab it.

The salmon was beautifully presented over red potatoes, steamed slices of sweet potato, and topped with the heart and stem of a large marinated artichoke. The artichoke was so melt-in-your-mouth delicious my aunt suggested that it should be added to the piattini selections. Arrive early if you want the salmon.

If you miss it, however, you're not out of luck. The pizza, which we did not have, is made to codes set by the Verace Pizza Napolentana Association. Burke spent a month under the tutelage of a pizzaiolo, or pizza chef, in Naples, where he learned to make Neapolitan pizza. "It's all about the dough," he said, adding that his ingredients are imported from Italy.

Pasta can be an excellent, light accompaniment to a meal or a simple dish in itself. We ordered pappardelle, which is like wide fettucine, with braised medallions of herbed lamb and ricotta salad ($15.25). Orta imports its pasta from Italy, except the lasagna noodles, which are made on site daily. Burke said he eventually intends to make all pasta on site, as he did when he owned Allegro.

For dessert, the flourless chocolate cake under a veil of powdered sugar and a swirl of whipped cream on the side ($6.50) had a silky fudge texture and mellow cocoa taste. The cappuccino ($3.50) was rich, creamy, and provided the perfect ending to a perfect meal.

MAUREEN COSTELLO