It's all about the dough

As we scan the packed dining room at Cafe 47, nearly every table sports the same edible crown: a large, golden-crusted pizza on an elevated serving stand. These notable pies don't cost more than $13; no wonder we have to wait a half-hour for a table.

When owner Beth Gibeley-Panagos opened Cafe 47 in March, the ailing economy was on her mind. Although this Italian and new American eatery sits in the Back Bay, the mindset is decidedly more Allston. The smart, affordable wine selection reads like a bargain list. Dinner entrees top out at $16, and lunch crests at $8 for a grilled panini.

Nothing feels downscale. Nut brown banquettes, cherry red floors, and a gleaming bar make a chic but cozy hideaway. Ingredients like perfectly toasted homemade candied walnuts in poached pear salad ($7) or the thick, fluffy flat bread that frames the hummus plate ($7) are carefully prepared. Beer choices run from local microbrews (try the Rapscallion on tap) to Euro brews, but none will put you out more than $4.50. Sunday brunch is coming soon. In short, the cafe has found the right recipe for dining in a down economy - a meal that makes you feel like you still have money to spare.

During the restaurant's first week, we hit upon a few flops including underdressed salads, over-risen pizza dough, and what I'll call the risotto that should have never been ($14). But on later visits all was well.

Lunch turns up a juicy, balsamic-rich portobello panini ($7) a delightfully pink yellowfin tuna burger ($8), and crisp fries ($1.50 and $2.50). Cuban panini ($7) does this cult sandwich justice with a joyful press of tender pork, all the extras, not-too-salty ham, and gooey Swiss.

Evenings, we enjoy a summery chicken pomodoro with penne ($15), as well as moist Atlantic salmon ($16). Fried banana caramel cheesecake ($5) is just plain fun. But pizza is the true find.

When Gibeley-Panagos bought out the space's former occupant Despina's, the dough recipe was passed on along with the keys. Cafe 47 takes this nicely chewy crust and dresses it up elegantly. Each thin pan-baked pie gets a slather of a zippy, light homemade sauce, a sprinkle of three cheeses, and quality toppings like fresh spinach, peppery Italian sausage, sweet caramelized onions, or roasted red peppers. Better still, a few pizzas are a wee $2.50 a slice.