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Bites

A roundup of recent restaurant reviews

October 14, 2009

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Extraordinary

Excellent

Good

Fair

(No stars) Poor

THE STORK CLUB 604 Columbus Ave., Boston. 617-391-0256. It was a sad day when Bob’s Southern Bistro closed: the end of a long run, the end of live jazz and soul food, the end of a place where people from all walks of life felt welcome. Now the Stork Club, opened in August in the same space, is bringing life back to Bob’s corner. It’s got live jazz and soul food, though the former’s more successful than the latter. It’s also got basics like burgers and chocolate mousse, which it executes quite well.

BIG PAPI’S GRILLE 30 Worcester Road (Route 9), Framingham. 508-620-9990. David Ortiz has had a rough year. There was the home run drought. There was the steroids scandal. And there is Big Papi’s Grille. It’s not so much that the place is terrible, although it’s not very good. It’s that Ortiz deserves to have his name on a restaurant with style and personality. Where is the Dominican flair, the Papi spirit? This is a midrange steakhouse like many other midrange steakhouses, just with better hot sauce. If Tom Brady were to put his name on a restaurant, you can bet it wouldn’t have vinyl tablecloths.

SPIGA 18 Highland Circle, Needham. 781-449-5600. Spiga seems so promising: a cute interior, charming Italian waiters, and chef Marisa Iocco (Galleria Italiana, Bricco, etc.) at the stove. Often it delivers, particularly with the pasta dishes Iocco has always aced. At other times, seasoning, flavors, and textures can be off. Spiga is the kind of restaurant you want to love. Sometimes you can.

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