Fair (No stars) Poor
ALMA NOVE 22 Shipyard Drive, Hingham. 781-749-3353. Alma Nove’s website says it’s “destined to become the new hotspot on Boston’s South Shore.’’ This kind of restaurant prognostication often turns out to be wishful thinking. In this case, it’s simply a fact. Chef Paul Wahlberg, brother of actors Donnie and Mark, puts together a mouthwatering Italian menu (pork meatballs, tagliatelle with short ribs and baby artichokes).
JACKY’S TABLE 1414 Commonwealth Ave., Brighton. 617-274-8687. The little brother of the Petit Robert bistros, this restaurant is even more laidback and affordable. The fare is proto-French, a feast of pates, steak frites, coq au vin, and other stalwarts. It’s rich, often garlicky, not infrequently topped in bubbling cheese, and completely satisfying with slugs of red wine. This is the stuff of old-school romance. If if plays its cards right, Jacky’s Table could be the big-date spot for generations of students, the kind of place one remembers fondly decades later.
THE MARKET RESTAURANT 33 River Road, Gloucester. 978-282-0700. Two Chez Panisse alums run this tiny, seasonal BYO overlooking the Annisquam River. Their pedigree has set Gloucester abuzz, but the Market isn’t quite there yet. Dishes often resemble things one might cook at home — this is both the restaurant’s appeal and an occasional pitfall. Closes for the season Oct. 15.