Dining

617-737-0854

www.blueincboston.com

Perhaps you know Jason Santos from Gargoyles on the Square, the Somerville restaurant at which he began cooking in 2005. Or perhaps you know the blue-haired chef from the Fox reality show “Hell’s Kitchen,’’ which he came thisclose to winning. Now you will know him for Blue Inc., his new restaurant on the Greenway, which opened last week.

Santos’s cooking combines eclectic influences and a soupcon of molecular gastronomy. On Blue Inc.’s menu, you’ll find slow-cooked pork belly with lime sugar, blueberry pudding, honeydew, and pink pepper; boneless buttermilk fried chicken with celery root mousseline, habanero BBQ syrup, pea tendrils, and avocado salad; braised veal cheeks with green peppercorn syrup, potato puree, frisee salad, and watermelon tartare; and more. Dishes from Gargoyles reappear, too, including the incredible calamari “spaghetti,’’ wherein tender squid mimics the appearance of noodles. Cocktails and desserts are just as wild, involving liquid nitrogen and in-your-face names. (We’ll see how long a drink called “The Anorexic Model’’ stays on the menu.) Restraint is not Santos’s game. Fun is.

Devra First can be reached at dfirst@globe.com.