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Cheap Eats

Savory Greek in tempting combinations

By Louise Kennedy
Globe Correspondent / August 10, 2011

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The seductive genius of The Grillin’ Greek shows up even in a menu item that isn’t grilled at all. It’s called a chocolate drizzled baklava flute ($3 for two), and it’s just what it sounds like: flaky baklava that’s been curled into a tube before baking, then squiggled with just enough dark chocolate to counterpoint the honeyed sweetness.

Baklava and chocolate? Irresistible.

But it’s not just the desserts in this tiny, mostly take-out, year-old establishment that evince a dangerous flair for irresistible combinations. White pizza with artichoke hearts and feta? Thin slices of lamb and a great Greek salad with homemade dressing? A “Greekadilla’’ that marries the gooey delight of a quesadilla with the classic zing of spinach-and-feta pie? Yes, yes, and yes. And, yes, more please.

That pizza, aptly if cutely dubbed the White Princess of Cheese ($9.95 to $19.50, depending on size), also features chicken, mushrooms, and plenty of garlic - a pungency it shares with several other white pizzas here, along with a pleasingly blistered crust that’s thinner than you would expect for Greek style. All these are listed in the “house pizza’’ section, as is a Red Meat Rage ($9.95 to $18.50) that seems to feature everything but yak. (OK: shaved steak, bacon, sausage, ground beef, and pepperoni.) That one pleased the resident teenager so completely that we never had to resort to the “traditional pizza’’ sector. But, yeah, you can get pineapple if you want it, and if you’ve lived in Boston long enough to consider a pineapple pizza traditional.

Don’t stick with pizza when you can get a Lil Bo Peep’s Lost Sheep ($8.25), the aforementioned salad with lamb. It’s an omnivore’s dream: Crisp greens, olives, feta, a light and tangy dressing that’s a family secret, and on top of all that, thin slices of the same savory lamb that goes into a tender, homemade pita for a fine gyro. In cooler weather, we’ll go back for the lamb stew, the Greek-style steak tips, or the lamb with rice pilaf. For now this salad or another winner, the salata Kalamata, Greek salad with extra olives and lemony stuffed grape leaves ($7.75), is all we need for supper.

The Grillin’ Greek is barely a restaurant, with just one table inside and another out back. It’s perfect for takeout - or delivery if you live nearby. On one visit, we were happy to yield the table to a gaggle of teenage girls sharing a large plate of golden Greek potatoes, with plenty of yogurt-based tzatziki for dipping. Clever girls: They already know it’s the food and the company, not the size or status, that makes the meal.

Louise Kennedy can be reached at louise.kennedy.writer@gmail.com.

THE GRILLIN’ GREEK

3 Union St., Natick, 508-655-4711, www.thegrillingreek.com. All major cards. Not wheelchair accessible.

Prices Appetizers $2.50-$9.50. Entrees $5.25-$10.95. Desserts $1.50-$3.

Hours Daily 10:30 a.m.-8:30 p.m.

May we suggest Lil Bo Peep’s Lost Sheep Salad, White Princess of Cheese pizza, spinach and feta Greekadilla, chocolate drizzled baklava flute.

Ratings

  • 4 Stars Extraordinary
  • 3 Stars Excellent
  • 2 Stars Good
  • 1 Star Fair
  • No Stars Poor