Dining

Stanhope Street is an unlikely place for a restaurant row, tucked away in Back Bay. But what it lacks in visibility it makes up for with beautiful brick buildings that restaurateurs seem unable to resist. Recently we’ve seen the former Stix and Bertucci’s replaced by Zocalo and Red Lantern, respectively. The latest to open is the Brahmin, in the space that was previously 33 Restaurant & Lounge.

Operated by the people behind Red Sky in Faneuil Hall, the Brahmin serves lunch and dinner in a two-story space modeled to look like a 1900s brownstone crossed with a present-day nightclub: tufted brown leather couches, exposed brick, chandeliers, clusters of seating to lounge on. The menu features smaller plates such as grilled white asparagus wrapped in Serrano ham, tater tots with three sauces, salmon crudo, meatballs with tomato and basil, and truffled macaroni and cheese. There are also flatbreads, sandwiches (a BLT, a chicken and wild mushroom with smoked gouda), steak frites, and other heartier fare. Classics and new inventions fill out the cocktail list.

The Brahmin’s name tips a hat to old Boston, but suddenly Stanhope is a whole new street.

Devra First can be reached at dfirst@globe.com.