This is a monthly column on wines we call "plonk," which began as British slang for the cheapest drink served, and is now widely used to mean simple, inexpensive bottles. This new year, we're raising the price ceiling from $10 to $12. The decision stems in part from the continued decline in the value of the dollar, a situation that makes all European wines more expensive than they might otherwise be. The change will also allow us to report on some California wines that otherwise wouldn't make the cut due to high costs of winemaking there. "Plonk of the month" appears on the last Wednesday of the month and is posted on Boston.com.

Wines are selected to go with the season, so winter's heartier fare might lean more toward reds, but whites appear more often as the weather warms. We list several shops where you can buy these bottles, but check with your local merchant.