New Zealand chardonnay stands above the others
The New Zealand wine industry is best known for its unique style of sauvignon blanc, made from grapes grown in the Marlborough region on the South Island. Over the past 30 years, the Marlborough region has gone from pasture land to producing world-class sauvignon blanc. But New Zealand's most widely planted grape remains chardonnay, which most wineries there turn into a crisp restrained wine, very different stylistically from the voluptuous California renditions or elegant white Burgundies.
However, at least one New Zealand producer, the Kumeu River Winery, turns out unbelievably rich and refined chardonnay.
The Brajkovich family, proprietors of Kumeu River Winery, emigrated from the former Yugoslavia to the North Island of New Zealand, near Auckland. There they established San Marino Vineyards in 1944, when there was barely a wine industry in New Zealand. Mate (pronounced Mattie), the son of the founders, continued to run the winery with his mother after his father died and, in 1986, changed the name of the property to its current one.
In 1990 he replanted a portion of the original vineyard with chardonnay with the intention of using the grapes for its standard Kumeu River Chardonnay. He did not live to see the fruits of his labor because the vines did not produce acceptable fruit until 1993, a year after his death. Mate's wife, Melba, renamed that vineyard to honor her husband and, as managing director, continues to run the winery with her sons. Paul Brajkovich, one of Mate's sons, told me via e-mail that despite his father's intention, the family decided to use the grapes for a separate wine from the onset because they are so distinctive.
The 2003 Mate's Vineyard Chardonnay has extraordinary intensity and length without being overdone or heavy. If you are planning to spend this kind of money or more for California chardonnay or white Burgundy, reconsider. While not inexpensive, Kumeu River's Mate's Vineyard Chardonnay is a knockout.
Kumeu River Winery, Mate's Vineyard Chardonnay, 2003. About $40. Distributed by Carolina Wine & Spirits, 781-278-2000.
