Top individual pours around town

No restaurant bar we know makes its entire wine list available by the glass, so ordering this way necessarily narrows your choices. Ideally, labels poured a glass at a time should reflect the overall character of the cellar and a sense of the aesthetic in play as well as offering a starting point for exploring the complete list.

At Rendezvous, we liked the 2004 Pares Balta Penedes ''Blanc de Pacs" for its bright gold hue and flavors reminiscent of a rosemary-scented lemon ice ($8) and the 2004 Edmunds St. John ''Bone-Jolly" El Dorado County Gamay Noir 2004, a bundle of fresh, juicy red fruits gift wrapped in the kind of cheeky acidity California is not known for ($9).

B&G Oysters, Ltd. won our hearts with the 2004 Vocoret Chablis, for its razor-sharp focus and flinty mineral notes ($12), and the 2004 La Louvetrie Muscadet ''Amphibolite," a brisk, lively, yeasty sip with a tickle of spritz and whiff of sea breeze ($8).

At Sel de la Terre, sip the super bright and citrusy 2002 Zahel Gelber Muskateller ''Crystal," with its pink grapefruit-litchi-lime juice profile ($9), and the 2004 Coturri Mendocino County Old Vine Carignan, Testa Vineyard. Its intensely delicious, pure strawberry-raspberry flavors; farmy aromas; and edge-of-your-seat acidity make for one wild ride ($9).

With Toro's delicious little plates, taste the 2004 Gramona ''Gessami" Dry Muscat Penedes, with forward aromas of fresh grapes and muscat-y spice ($8), and the 2002 Bodegas Castano Monastrell ''Hecula" Yecla, whose hefty fruit, firm acidity, and character make it almost too big for its britches ($8).

Play a round of Troquet with the 2004 Dr. Loosen Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett, a perfectly poised little lemon drop of a wine ($9.50), and the 2001 Baumard Savennieres ($8.50). The latter's quivering acidity and stoniness won't be everyone's cup of tea, but being able to get a taste of one of the world's great, idiosyncratic wines by the glass is a big treat and a Troquet specialty.

STEPHEN MEUSE