In a perfect world, little wines would merely be diminutive versions of their luxury counterparts -- every component present in due proportion, just less of it. In such a world even wines at $10 and under would retain enough personality to readily link them with the places and winemaking traditions from which they are issued.

In reality, even perfectly drinkable plonk doesn't often deliver enough information to the palate to make this possible. So, when you do come across some real character in a little wine, it's something special.

The three modest reds listed here are cases in point: not only perfectly lovely to drink but possessed of qualities -- a certain cut and earthy, red currant fruit we'll say -- that are clearly suggestive of their Bordeaux pedigree. A pair of whites follow, one a widely available old standby from a Bordeaux sub-region known for simple, fresh quaffers; the other a perfect peach of a picnic sip from a bit further south that's like blue sky in a bottle.