To the trade -- as the wine industry calls itself -- value wines are anything with a low price. Savvy wine buyers know better. To them, value means more quality than you expect for the money, no matter what the price. When the search for value in $10-and-under wines turns to southern Italy (let's call it anything below Orvieto), you can expect robust and flavorful reds to dominate. Here, wines based on nero d'avola and negro-amaro varietals tend to be sturdy things, while those made from the primitivo grape may show a cushier profile. Recently, technology has remade the whites of the region along the crisp, fruity lines the global market now insists on -- a happy turn of events when dinner is a bit of fish so fresh it needs only a moment under the broiler and a squirt of lemon to take your breath away.