Large crowds, big names
Montreal festival continues to grow in size and stature
By general consensus it's the world's biggest jazz festival, and it stubbornly refuses to stop growing. Now in its 29th year, the Montreal Jazz Festival, which runs from June 26 to July 6, is richer than ever, with 15 indoor venues and an abundance of outdoor programs, many of them - in the festival's finest tradition - absolutely free.
Montreal is as close as there is to a one-stop shop for a panorama of jazz today, generously seasoned with world music, pop, and electronica - plus cruises on the St. Lawrence River and children's programs that make this a family destination as well as one for night owls and hipsters.
Among the performance highlights are some of the year's certified mega-shows - the Return to Forever reunion tour comes through here, for instance, as does Al Green in support of his astonishing new album of old-meets-new soul. Montrealer Leonard Cohen plays three nights just prior to the festival's official start. Legends Dave Brubeck, Hank Jones, and McCoy Tyner will each play multiple shows. Aretha Franklin, Cassandra Wilson, Dianne Reeves, and Abbey Lincoln will all drop by - along with new torchbearers of song like Stacey Kent and Coral Egan.
For the Afro-pop crowd, there's Salif Keita, Orchestra Baobab, and Dee Dee Bridgewater's jazz-meets-Mali "Red Earth" project. Lovers of hip-hop and edgy rock and electronica can check out De La Soul, the RZA and the GZA from Wu-Tang, Ladytron, TV on the Radio, and We Are Wolves. Oh, and did we mention Gilberto Gil, the Blind Boys of Alabama, Lee Scratch Perry, Bettye LaVette, and Steely Dan?
You get the idea.
The problem with Montreal is mastering the schedule and figuring out a game plan without becoming overwhelmed. The good news is that the shows are concentrated in a friendly downtown area made car-free for the occasion. And in a year when gasoline prices and the sorry state of the US dollar make Montreal slightly less of a bargain than it usually is, there's plenty of free shows to make a frugally minded trip worthwhile.
Here's a completely arbitrary sampler of options, divided into the three-or-four-day chunks many visitors consider when planning their trip.
JUNE 26-28
Ticketed: Gilberto Gil isn't just the foremost exponent of Afro-Brazilian music - he's also Brazil's minister of culture (June 26). Salif Keita, a distinguished veteran, and Vieux Farka Touré, a rookie with impeccable lineage, offer contrasting takes on Malian music (June 26). Joe Lovano, Dave Liebman, and Ravi Coltrane hold a Saxophone Summit (June 27). Hank Jones and Brad Mehldau propose a compelling two-piano conversation across generations and sensibilities (June 28).
Free highlights: Madeleine Peyroux, Buffy Sainte-Marie, Chris Botti, and many more join in an homage to Montreal native son Leonard Cohen (June 26). Pistolera play hot Latin rock (June 28).
JUNE 29-JULY 2
Ticketed: Woody Allen - yes, the director, but did you know he's also a clarinetist? - performs with his New Orleans Jazz Band. (June 29-30). E.S.T. plays jazz-rock from the Scandinavian frontier (June 29). Israeli sax-and-clarinet sensation Anat Cohen opens for Montreal regular Charlie Haden and his Quartet West (June 30). John Coltrane's pianist McCoy Tyner joins Coltrane's son Ravi in a tribute concert (July 1). And the South comes north when the Dirty Dozen Brass Band shares the bill with the Blind Boys of Alabama (July 2).
Free highlights: José Conde and Ola Fresca (June 29); Mayra Andrade (June 30); the Nation Beat (July 2); Chicha Libre (July 2).
JULY 3-6
Ticketed: Speed guitarists Rodrigo y Gabriela are a Mexican pair who found their voice living in Ireland (July 3). Aretha Franklin needs no introduction (July 3-4). Young trumpeter Christian Scott is an important new voice of New Orleans (July 4). Lee Scratch Perry and the Wailers touch the essence of roots reggae (July 5). And a showcase for Montreal label Justin Time stars avant-garde violinist Billy Bang (July 5).
Free highlights: Las Rubias del Norte (July 5), Gokh-Bi System (July 5), Rupa & the April Fishes (July 5), and Mory Kanté (July 6) offer a kaleidoscope of sounds from around the world.
