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It’s this spirit of fun that animates M3 — the food is to be enjoyed, not taken overly seriously. The beer list begins with the category “cans” and ends with the category “more cans.” It’s an impressive array. (There’s also pinot grigio and a cabernet sauvignon/syrah blend from the Gotham Project on tap, a “wine cooler cocktail” that tastes a lot like sangria, and Snapple-esque fruit tea — served, of course, in a jar.) Dessert brings the likes of strawberry red velvet cake and decadent fried Fluffernutter sandwiches.

M3 is the kind of place you want to linger, talking and eating fried pickles as the beer cans sweat on the table and Johnny Cash falls, again, into a burning ring of fire. Why leave? It’s a perfect Southern night in Somerville.

Devra First can be reached at dfirst@globe.com. Follow her on Twitter @devrafirst.