There’s also a nice wine list, often with markups to match, in case anyone has an expense account anymore. That 2006 Heitz Cellars “Martha’s Vineyard” cabernet sauvignon would probably pair well with the more-steakhouse-like section of the menu, offering cuts of beef in tangentially Asian preparations. (Did they import the masseuse for the “Korean rubbed sirloin”?) Smoky ribs coated in chili, miso, sake, and brown sugar go well with Napa cabbage slaw, although the accompanying stuffed tomato confounds, ripped right off a Brit’s breakfast plate.
Miso is used to fine effect again with a Cornish hen marinated in the salty paste; it seems to brine the meat, which is tender and juicy. The bird is served carved and put back together with chunks of crisp potato.
Dessert isn’t a focus in Asia. Empire puts some thought into the course. Servers are pushing a cake special hard; a tower of layers coated in chocolate, with the faintest hint of soy, it’s a crowd-pleaser. I’m more appreciative of a (slightly soggy) yuzu shortcake because of the tart and refreshing granita that comes alongside. Best yet are star anise-scented Munchkins with warm centers, combining the best of doughnut holes and gingerbread.
They would be great with tea.
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