In its barely baked tart shell, lemon meringue pie tastes like the inside of the cooler where it malingered. S’more sticks feature skewered toasted marshmallows, suspended over tiny dishes of melted chocolate, graham cracker crumbs, and raspberry coulis. The riff has nothing on the original. Sauces are scant, and what’s raspberry doing in the mix? More problematic, the marshmallows are toasted long enough before serving that they arrive cold and hard.
On the plus side are Sip’s friendly, eager servers, who joke about the obnoxious music (I’ve never been to a Moscow vodka bar for the nouveau riche, but I’d imagine this is what one sounds like) and make unsolicited recommendations. If they sometimes judge the merits of the dishes on how big they are, well, that’s a key yardstick for many.
As for the cocktails, they’re not bad. The fruit-flavored Bellinis aren’t overly sweet. The grapefruit-basil martini is balanced and refreshing, made with fresh-squeezed juice. Just don’t come to this wine bar in search of horizons-expanding wine.